It’s been 25 years since we were introduced to Friends, and since it’s the 25th anniversary, there’s something big planned for fans. On Sept. 22, Sept. 28 and Oct. 2, theaters across the US will screen Friends 25th: The One With The Anniversary.
Starting today, you can buy tickets to watch Friends on the big screen in theaters. Each night will include four different episodes, never-before-seen content and exclusive interviews (we’re assuming with the cast and director) all in 4K high definition.
If you’re ready to relive ’90s sitcom glory and watch Rachel, Ross, Monica, Chandler, Phoebe and Joey on the big screen, then here’s what you need to do to buy tickets.
How to decide which night to go
Any night you choose is sure to be amazing if you’re a huge Friends fan. Heck, you can even go all three showings. But if you can only go one night, here’s what will be playing each night.
2. Enter your zip code to see which theaters around you are playing Friends.
3. Select the date(s) you’d like to attend and then click on the orange button with the showtime. For example, 7:00 AM.
4. Depending on which site the theater sells tickets through (most are Atom Tickets or the theater’s website), you’ll be taken to that site to finish ordering your tickets. Note that since it’s a special event, ticket prices may be higher than usual.
5. That’s it! Now you can start the countdown to celebrating Friends 25th anniversary in theaters.
There is a plethora of ways that people create eyes in projects, but with the Monster M4SK from Adafruit, I suspect we’ll be seeing a lot of people going a similar route. Fast forward to about 10:22 in the video above to learn more. This board takes the basic principles that they had been working on with the Hallowing and other projects and really refines it for eyeball making. Basically, you can get the nice effects from their raspberry pi eyes, but without the raspberry pi!
ATSAMD51G19 Cortex M4 microcontroller running at 120MHz with 512KB Flash, 192KB RAM
8 MB QSPI flash for storing graphics and sound effects
Two 240×240 IPS TFT displays each on their own SPI bus
Beautiful silkscreen with a boop-able nose that is a capacitive touch pad
Lipoly battery charge circuit for portable use
Stereo headphone jack out, for sound effects via an amplifier
Mono speaker driver for smaller 8 ohm 1W speakers
One 4 pin STEMMA JST connector for I2C connection (also Grove compatible)
Two 3 pin STEMMA JST connectors with digital/analog/PWM for servos, sensors, etc
One 4 pin JST SH port for connecting an optional PDM microphone
Three tactile buttons
On/Off Switch and reset button
It is important to reiterate, in case you missed it in the list above… the nose is capacitive touch so you can boop it. There’s also another cool feature of this board. You can snap it in the middle and connect both sides via a cable so that you can place the eyes further apart if they are part of your costume or suit.
YouTube is the most popular video platform in the world, which is why any experiments with new technologies should make you sit up and pay attention. In this case, it’s a new feature on YouTube for your phone that uses AR (that’s augmented reality) to help you try on and even buy lipstick using your front-facing camera — without leaving your living room. The platform is already a powerhouse for product recommendations of all kinds. If successful, this could be the beginning of a new way to shop using AR.
For now, the new AR Beauty Try-On tool in the YouTube app for Android and iPhone lets you try on MAC lipstick while following along with beauty vlogger Roxette Arisa. Using this new feature can help you preview lipstick shades before you buy. It could even save you a trip from visiting the store — if you find a color that looks damn good on you, you can buy it right then and there.
YouTube says it’s exploring other makeup possibilities, so virtually trying on blush and eyeshadow shades could come next. Enjoy!
4. Select OK to give YouTube access to your camera. You’ll need to do this in order to use the feature.
5. The screen splits and you’ll see yourself in the bottom half of your phone display, along with 24 lipstick shades to swipe through. Tap any color you’re interested in trying on. Be careful when you move your mouth — you might get fake lipstick on your teeth.
6. As you’re selecting colors, you’ll notice that the MAC shade names appear at the bottom of the screen. If you find a color you want to buy, tap Shop.
7. Tap again to open MAC’s shopping cart in your preferred browser and checkout from there.
For the next few weeks, Apple is slowly rolling the Apple Card via a preview program. If you signed up to be notified of its launch, then you have a chance of getting randomly selected to participate. The Apple Card is slated to fully roll out in the US by the end of August, meaning preview invites will no longer be required. Make sure your iPhone ($1,000 at Amazon) is running iOS 12.4 before you try to sign up.
The sign-up process is the same, whether you receive an invite or wait for the full launch:
1. Open the Wallet app on your iPhone. 2. Tap the + button in the top right corner. 3. If you see a screen explaining what Apple Pay is, tap Continue. 4. Select Apple Card from the list of available payment methods. 5. Apple fills out most of the sign-up form for you using your Apple ID information. You’ll need to confirm the information, add the last four digits of your social security number, enter your annual income and accept the Apple Card terms and conditions. 6. Once you’re done, you’ll receive an offer with what your credit limit and interest rate will be. Tap Accept Apple Card to open your Apple Card account. Select No Thanks if you change your mind.
Once you accept the offer, you’ll be asked if you want to set Apple Card as your default card. If you select Use as Default Card your Apple Card will be triggered for all contactless payments, and your Apple payment source for the Apple Store (apps, movies, subscriptions) will be changed to use the Apple Card.
If you have bad credit or aren’t sure if you’ll qualify, read through Apple’s support document that walks through details of what could lead to your application getting declined.
Lastly, during the sign-up process, you’re asked if you want to receive a physical Apple Card in the mail for use in places that don’t have contactless payment systems. If you don’t want a physical card right now, you can always request one later on.
Using your Apple Card
Immediately after opening your Apple Card account, you’ll have a digital version of the card available in Apple Pay. You can begin using it to make purchases right away — I bought some coffee at Starbucks just a few minutes after setting my account up.
The process for using your Apple Card through Apple Pay is the same as it’s always been: Place your phone near a payment terminal and use Touch ID or Face ID to approve the transaction.
Apple will also add your Apple Card to Safari’s auto-fill feature, which you’ve likely seen a prompt for when ordering something in Safari on your phone or Mac. If you’re not being prompted to use your Apple Card, or any card for that matter, when making purchases in Safari, go into your iPhone’s Settings app and select Safari > AutoFill and turn on Credit Cards.
If you want to use your Apple Card on a website that doesn’t accept Apple Pay, and you’re not a Safari user, your Apple Card has a semipermanent virtual card number (more on what that means below). You can find your card’s number on your iPhone by opening the Wallet app and selecting your Apple Card and then the three-dot icon in the top-right corner followed by Card Information.
There you’ll find a card number, expiration date and security code; all of the information you’d need to make a purchase online or over the phone.
Your titanium Apple Card should arrive in the mail within a week of signing up. Once it does, you’ll need to activate it either in the Wallet app (for older iPhone models) or by holding your iPhone XS or iPhone XR ($750 at Best Buy) near the card’s envelope and following the prompts.
The Wallet app is your Apple Card account portal
The Wallet app on your iPhone is where you go to view and manage your Apple Card account. Your card is tied to your Apple ID, so you don’t need to worry about creating and remembering another password.
You’ll notice as you begin to make purchases that the Apple Card in the Wallet app changes colors and looks different after every transaction. That’s Apple’s way of gently showing you what your spending habits are, with each color representing a different category.
Currently, there are seven spending categories: Shopping, Food & Drinks, Entertainment, Services, Travel, Transportation and Health.
To view your spending habits, open the Wallet app and select your Apple Card. You’ll see a list of recent transactions, your balance, any upcoming payments and weekly activity.
Tap on a transaction to view more details, including the exact location it was made at, how much Daily Cash you earned and how much money you’ve spent at that business for the given month.
Select Weekly Activity to view your purchases, broken down by the same color-coded categories that determine what your Apple Card looks like. Alternatively, you can tap View Monthly to break down spending patterns by each month.
After purchases begin posting to your account, you’ll be able to make a payment and view how much interest your current balance will accrue over time. View your Apple Card in the Wallet app and tap on the Payment panel. At the top of the screen will be your billing date. A circular slider will let you adjust a payment amount, and just below that, you’ll see any interest charges that will be charged. Tap Pay Now when you’re ready to make a payment.
The first time you make a payment you’ll need to add a bank account. If you already use Apple Cash, then you’ll be asked if you want to use the same bank account and the information will automatically get filled in for you. Otherwise, you’ll need your bank’s routing number and your account number.
Using your Apple Card, you’ll earn cash back on every purchase. The amount of Daily Cash you earn is based on how (and in once instance, where) a purchase is made. For all purchases made at Apple, be it for your Apple Music subscription or a new iPhone in the Apple Store, you’ll earn 3% back. For all contactless payments, you’ll earn 2% back. When you use the physical card, you’ll get 1% back.
You don’t have to do anything to claim your Daily Cash — Apple will process and transfer it to your Apple Cash card every night. So if you purchased an iPad Pro ($746 at Walmart) at the Apple Store and the total was $1,000, you should expect to have $30 on your Apple Cash card the next day.
You can then put your Apple Cash balance toward the balance on your Apple Card, spend it using Apple Pay or transfer it to your bank account.
Check on your Daily Cash transaction history by going into the Wallet app and selecting your Apple Card, then the three-dot icon in the top right corner. View your transaction history under Weekly Activity and select Daily Cash.
What happens if you lose your card or, even worse, your phone?
If you misplace or lose the physical Apple Card, you can freeze it in the Wallet app. You can then unfreeze the card if you recover it, and begin using it again. If you lose it and are unable to find it, you can cancel your old card and request a new one within the Wallet app.
Replace your virtual card
If your virtual card has been compromised, you can cancel it and request a new number from the Wallet app. Doing so will immediately give you a new number and security code, invalidating the previous card number. Your virtual card number is not the same number that’s on your physical card, so getting a new virtual number will require you to order a replacement card.
To request a new virtual card number, view your Apple Card in the Wallet app and tap the three-dot icon in the top right corner. Select Card Information > Request New Card Number. You’ll need to confirm you want a new card number, after which it will be updated.
What happens if you lose your phone?
If you lose your iPhone, the first thing to do is turn on Lost Mode using Find My iPhone. Doing so will prevent anyone from using all the cards you’ve added to Apple Pay. Next, you’ll need to contact Apple support at 1-800-MY-APPLE (1-800–692–7753) and request that your virtual card number and, if needed, your physical card be frozen. Or you can use another iOS device to manage your account until you’re able to recover your iPhone.
Where to turn for customer support
The quickest and easiest way to get support for your Apple Card account is via iMessage. You can start a conversation with Apple support by viewing your Apple Card settings in the Wallet app.
Tap on the Message button, and an iMessage thread will begin where you can chat with a support representative from Goldman Sachs, the Apple Card’s card issuer and bank. Next to the Message option, you’ll also find the options to call support or visit the support website.
Don’t go to an Apple Store: Apple Card support is handled by Goldman Sachs, so Apple Store employees probably aren’t going to be much help beyond directing you to Goldman Sachs.
If you decide that it’s time to jump ship to an Android phone, you can still use the physical version of your Apple Card and continue to pay toward your balance — but you’ll need to call in your payments to 1-877-255-5923. Without an iPhone, all of the benefits and streamlined interactions that make the Apple Card unique all but disappear.
You can use your iPad ($249 at Walmart) to view transaction history and similar information, make payments, view spending habits or any of the more in-depth features you’ll find on an iPhone.
As we continue to use the Apple Card, charging, making payments and monitoring our spending, there’ll surely be more features we discover. We’ll continue to update this post in the coming days and weeks.
As soon as I saw IKEA’s announcement for a $99 Sonos-powered Airplay speaker, I was excited for the possibilities its internals could bring. And oh boy, was I right to be. In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to whittle away the woefully inefficient compact speaker unit, and bring it to life on a pair of quality vintage bookshelf speakers.
Just a quick note about speaker selection. Be sure to select a pair of speakers that are (A) set up for bi-amping (eg. four input terminals instead of the standard two), or (B) a set of two-way speakers that you aren’t opposed to dissecting.
#2 Phillips Screwdriver (Possibly #1 as well, if you’re picky)
Needle Nose Pliers
Spudger or pick (if you don’t have fingernails long enough)
While there isn’t much information out there on disassembly of the speaker, a little bit of hunting around the sealed plastic enclosure revealed that the fabric tab with the Sonos and IKEA logos on it functioned as a pull tab to get the grille off.
This reveals the three acoustic elements, a 1 inch rubber done tweeter, a 3 inch woofer, and a curved tuned port. The rubber inserts that suspend the grille in place are firmly seated in their holes, requiring the needle-nose pliers to remove.
Underneath each insert is a Loctite sealed #2 phillips screw, which will each give out a small pop when unscrewed, due to the threadlocker releasing.
Next is the tricky part. The front panel, with all the speakers, is sealed to the case by a friction fit foam strip. The easiest way to remove it is to wedge as many fingers as you can into the bass port, and hook them around the bend (towards the tweeter) and pull firmly and consistently. Be careful not to yank the whole assembly too hard, as there are a few connections to the motherboard inside that can be quite fragile.
Once it’s free from the foam seal, it’s easiest to open it up like a book, in order to get to the four spade connectors, two per driver, and the small flex cable for the buttons and status lights.
There are two different size spade connectors per speaker, a smaller one for ground, and a large one for the positive terminal. Be careful removing these, they are locking spade connectors, meaning that if you pull directly on them, something important will give instead of the connector. Pull back the clear heat shrink, and locate the small locking tab. Squeeze this down with the needle-nose pliers as you pull, and they come off with little to no effort.
Next is the tiny, fragile 8-pin flex cable, and corresponding connector, which the motherboard uses to connect to the front panel controls and indicator light. After peeling back the small oval-shaped foam tape covering the connector, use a spudger, or a fingernail, to open the latch, and gently lift out the end of the cable.
Now that the front panel is completely free, we get our first real look at the internals of the speaker, and WOW, is it impressive for the price. We’ll take a closer look at the motherboard later, but just as a precursor, we can see three large, name brand capacitors, a socketed wifi card (meaning a feasible wifi upgrade years on), and properly isolated high and low voltage sections of the PCB.
We’re next going to remove the brace that holds the foam-wrapped speaker cables in place. One short #2 phillips screws on each side of the plastic part come off, and with minimal effort, you can remove the cables and ferrite core from the clips.
The speaker cables have their own socket and connector, but watch out, as it is yet another locking connector. Use the end of your screwdriver to push the small rectangular latch towards the body of the connector, while simultaneously giving the cable a gentle tug.
On the opposite corner of the motherboard, the AC power input has a similar connector, which is removed in the same way. Next to that are the two wifi antenna cables, one red and one yellow. It is easiest to remove these by removing the blob of hot glue they are seated in at the same time. If it all comes out in one unit, reassembly outside of the case will be easier. If not, peel away the excess hot glue, and prepare for the microscopic job of reconnecting the two coaxial connectors.
Next, remove the six screws holding the motherboard in place. Be careful with the four screws closest to the bottom of the unit, as they are threaded into a cast aluminum heatsink, and require just a bit more torque. Remove the board from the enclosure, turning it diagonally to avoid the internal ribbing of the enclosure.
This surprisingly large heatsink is held in by three more phillips screws, but be careful not to damage the two thermal pads when removing the screws. Remove the heatsink, and use four of the six motherboard screws to affix it back to its spot on the board.
Now that the motherboard and heatsink are one again, we can look closer at the board, and marvel at the quality of it. A good mixture of cheaper and more compact SMD components, as well as appropriately beefy through-hole components. Each side of the board has its own EMI shielded enclosure, with the computer on the front, and the amplifier on the back. Plated mounting holes, heavy doses of solastic, and name brand components all jump out as features of much more expensive circuitry.
Back to the front panel, we can remove the four small phillips screws holding the button assembly to the panel. Remove these, and the buttons, rubber membrane, and small daughterboard are freed.
Now, slowly peel the flex cable from the bottom of the enclosure, as it’s needed to connect the two circuit boards. It’s worth noting that the 8 contact pads of the flex cable face towards the circuit board upon reinsertion. Remove the two phillips screws around the AC socket, and reconnect it to the motherboard for testing.
Next up are the two oddly angled antennas in the top of the enclosure. Engineering-wise, these feel like an afterthought, as they each have their own plastic bracket connecting them to the enclosure, instead of having their mounts molded into the plastic, like all the other components. Speculation aside, they’re easy enough to remove, using a bit of force on the bottom of each bracket breaks the strong double-sided tape holding them in, and the hot glue holding the antenna cables into the enclosure is easy enough to break.
Now we have all the electronics free, it’s time to connect them to the speaker and give it a quick test. This is what you should have in front of you.
Along with a speaker, of course. This is where things start to differ. As mentioned in the beginning of this tutorial, you will need either a bi-amp-able speaker (i.e., separate terminals for woofer and tweeter) or a two-way speaker for which you can bypass the internal crossover. These are two discrete digital amplifiers, one for the tweeter, and one for the woofer. Bridging them not only causes the amplifier to shut down, but it may damage your $99 pile of circuit boards and wires.
The connections are as follows, for the tweeter, red for positive, black for negative, just like the textbook says. For the woofer, blue for positive, and white for negative. A polarity swap isn’t the end of the world, it’ll just cause your two-way speaker to be out of phase with itself. I have my board connected to a vintage JMLabs bi-amped two-way bookshelf speaker, as shown below.
Plug in the AC cord, launch the Sonos app, and launch the real star of the show, the TruePlay tuning feature baked into the app, and your board. Follow the directions, disregarding that your speaker isn’t in its final resting place, as you can simply retune it later. The TruePlay software quickly adapts the digital crossover within the board, allocating the correct frequency ranges to the woofer and the tweeter of your speaker, making it sound near perfect.
20 year old bookshelf speaker being tuned by futuristic software courtesy of a gutted $99 IKEA sonos speaker. pic.twitter.com/3qz0kD7z7s
And there you have it! One half of the perfect budget Sonos system. Repeat the procedure for your second speaker, maybe build yourself a nice enclosure for the electronics, and relish in the glory of a beautiful pair of Airplay-2, Sonos-enabled, TruePlay-tuned speakers for a few hundred bucks.
The musical Cats is about to become a big-screen movie, and its first trailer sparked some fur-ocious opinions. There’s just something about the half-human, half-cat stars, with their CGI fur, ears and tails, that’s both unnerving and upsetting, and social media users reacted like a kitten who’d just fallen into a full bathtub.
The movie’s cast list is nothing short of A-list, featuring big names such as Taylor Swift, Idris Elba, Judi Dench and James Corden. The songs are catchy and memorable. But … that trailer. Did they have to make the cast look quite so naked? Quite so sexy? Quite so much like the hybrid mutants from The Island of Doctor Moreau?
Someone even blended the trailer with scenes from films such as Pet Sematary, Bird Box and A Quiet Place to turn it into a horror movie. (Stephen King himself even shared it!)
Here’s what we know about the film so far. We’ll update this story as more news is released.
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Cats has a rich history. It’s based on Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats, a 1939 book of poems by T.S. Eliot, and was set to music by Andrew Lloyd Webber around 1980. The musical was a huge hit on Broadway, where it ran for 18 years, and in London, where it ran for 21 years. Like a sly alley cat, it’s wound its way into American pop culture, where its songs are sung by glee clubs and other school music groups. It was even cited in an iconic 1986 SNL skit where theater-goers are hypnotized to think another stage show was “much better than Cats.”
Eliot’s book gave numerous cats their own poems, but also helped sketch out a complicated cat culture in which a tribe of cats called the Jellicles attend the Jellicle Ball to decide which cat will ascend to heaven (called the Heaviside Layer) and be reborn. No, fur real, you just kinda got to go with it. It’s mostly about the music anyway. Memory, sung by Grizabella the Glamour Cat, was a hit for Barry Manilow in 1982 and 1983. (But if you ask me, Skimbleshanks the Railway Cat is the real crowd-pleaser.)
Release date and production info
The film’s been lazing around Hollywood for a while. Back in 2013, Webber said that the big-screen success of Les Misérables helped bring Cats to the forefront. Tom Hooper, who directed Les Mis, is directing Cats as well.
Filming began in late 2018 and wrapped in April. The film is coming out on Dec. 20, 2019, on the exact same day as the final Star Wars movie (as if there’s such a thing as “final” when it comes to Star Wars). Seems like the kitties might get buried under all the inevitable hype for Rise of Skywalker, but then again, the films probably appeal to very different audiences.
Cast: Who’s who?
There’s a giant litter of cats in this movie. Here are some of the main ones. Some of the roles, including that of Victoria and Skimbleshanks, are played by professional ballet dancers instead of actors.
More news, tidbits and rumors
Midnight, not a sound from the pavement
Grammy- and Oscar-winning actress and singer Jennifer Hudson, as Grizabella the Glamour Cat, gets to sing Cats’ showstopper, the memorable Memory.
Dress you up
Part of the unnerving feel of the trailer comes from the fact that some cats (Swift’s Bombalurina, for one) look naked, whereas others (Skimbleshanks, Bustopher Jones, Macavity) wear clothes. Dench’s Old Deuteronomy even wears a fur coat which … is it cat fur? Made from another cat? This just seems wrong. However, the Broadway musical used a similar mix of costumes, so it’s at least faithful.
Another element of the trailer that stood: Did the designers of the sets and props have any idea how large or small a cat really is? The scale of furniture to cat seems to swing wildly in the preview, with cats looking as small as mice while they dance on beds, yet looking near human-size when sitting at a dining table.
Hamming it up
Tony Award-winner Andy Blankenbuehler, who choreographed Hamilton and In the Heights, among other musicals, is choreographing the film.
Dench revealed in a short video feature that she was cast (as Grizabella) in the musical Cats in 1981 but snapped her Achilles tendon before shooting and “thought that was my history with Cats.” (The legendary Elaine Paige famously took over the role.) Now Dench is getting her chance at the cat box, though playing Old Deuteronomy instead.
Your eyes aren’t deceiving you. Identical twin brothers Laurent and Larry Nicolas Bourgeois, the French hip-hop dance duo known as Les Twins, play cats Socrates and Plato in the film.
This post was originally published on Aug. 11 and will be updated as new information becomes available.
We receive so many pitches for crowdfunding projects. They pour into our inbox daily. Since crowdfunding is a bit of a gamble, it is always kind of hard to determine just how to write about these projects, considering that many of them may not ever deliver. Cool Crowdfunding is our way of sharing some of the ones that catch our eye.
When faced with having to build a functional model for a school project, Josephine found herself thinking of particle accelerators. Her final project was so cool that the teacher actually wanted to buy it. Now Jo is hoping to bring this model to anyone who wants one. It uses a steel ball bearing to simulate what happens inside a particle accelerator by blasting it with perfectly timed electromagnets to keep it moving.
Compared to most industrial robots, the Mirobot is tiny, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t useful. It has many of the features the larger bots would have, such as a pendant for control, phone interface, and computer software for control, but fits on your desktop. There are a selection of tools for the head to allow you to tackle a multitude of tasks.
This is a “vision sensor” that allows for easily recognizing specific things like objects, colors, faces, paterns, and even finger gestures. It looks like a pretty powerful tool to put into the hands of non-coders.
Getting a new iPhone is exciting. New camera! Faster performance! Longer battery life! That is, until it’s time to transfer all of your information from your old iPhone, and you realize you are out of iCloud storage or your phone hasn’t been backed up in weeks. Ugh.
Starting with iOS 12.4, you can forget all that iCloud nonsense and use the new, dead simple, transfer tool that moves your data directly from one iPhone to another. Keep in mind that using an iCloud backup to restore your phone is faster, but if you refuse to pay for storage or your phone hasn’t been backed up recently, this is the easiest way to get your new iPhone set up.
Using the new data migration tool is simple, just make sure to set aside some time for all of your photos, messages, and other important info to transfer.
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What you need
You’ll need two iPhones — your old one and the new one you’re setting up — both running iOS 12.4, and access to a Wi-Fi network.
Go to Settings > General > Software Update to make sure you’re running the latest version of iOS 12. If your new iPhone isn’t running iOS 12.4 yet, go through the setup process on the phone, but don’t select the option to restore from any backup source. Instead, select “Don’t transfer apps & data” and skip through the rest of the setup steps. Once you get to the home screen, update it to iOS 12.4 and then factory reset it. I know, it’s a hassle, but doing so will ensure you can transfer all of your data from your old iPhone.
By the time you’ve eventually finished setting up your new phone (step-by-step instructions below), it will essentially be a direct copy of your current phone. Apps will be in the same place on your home screens, settings will be the same, email accounts… everything.
Using the new transfer feature
With your old and new iPhones next to each other, you’re about to start the setup process on the new phone. Your old phone should display a prompt asking if you want to set up a new phone. Tap Continue and then point the old iPhone’s camera at your new phone’s screen.
Follow the prompts on your new phone, completing tasks like entering a passcode, setting up Face ID or Touch ID, and agreeing to Apple’s terms and conditions. Eventually, you’ll end up on a screen asking if you want to transfer data directly from one phone to the other, or if you want to restore from iCloud.
Select Transfer from iPhone and follow the prompts, after which your iPhones will take care of the rest. Make sure you leave the two phones near each other, otherwise the transfer can slow down or stall.
It will take some time for the transfer to complete, depending on the speed of your Wi-Fi network and the amount of data you’re transferring. Naturally, 2,000 photos will take longer to transfer than 500. If you have a lot of apps and photos, be prepared to be patient — it’s going to take a while. It took me about 25 minutes to transfer data, which is exactly what the amount of time the tool estimated it would take.
The default method is to use a wireless connection for the transfer. Alternatively, if you have a Lightning-to-USB 3 camera adapter and a spare Lightning USB cable, a wired transfer is possible and should be faster. But it’s not worth going out and buying the adapter just to save yourself a few minutes.
After the transfer is complete, your new phone will reboot and your apps will finish downloading. All of your photos, emails, contacts, appointments, and messages will be there.
The timing of this new feature is perfect, with September around the corner. That’s when Apple is expected to announce several new iPhones (we think Apple will announce the iPhone 11 on Sept. 10), and this will definitely eliminate one of the biggest potential headaches when upgrading devices.
Following Google Maps navigation on foot isn’t always the easiest, especially if you’re on a busy street or a shaky connection means that navigation lags ever so slightly. Trying to follow the small blue dots guiding you to your destination can be a challenge — they’re just not easy to see and don’t always pinpoint exactly where you are. But a new feature in the Google Maps app for iPhone and Android makes it 100% crystal clear where you’re supposed to turn. How? By superimposing a massive arrow on the screen to tell you so. It’s called Live View and it’s here to help you get to your destination.
The Live View feature presents the area around you as viewed through your phone’s camera, using AR to place huge arrows that tell you exactly when to turn left or right. If you get lost, you can swivel your phone or body until you see the arrows pointing you in the right direction.
As of right now, Live View is only available for walking navigation, but we wouldn’t be surprised if Google eventually opened it up to driving directions, too. (Google didn’t immediately respond to a request for comment.) This week, Google will slowly roll out the function to Android phones and iPhones, so keep checking back.
Here’s how to use Live View on your phone.
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1. Open the Google Maps app on your phone. (This isn’t available on desktop navigation, of course.)
2. In the search bar, type the address or business name you’re going to and select the location.
3. Tap Directions.
4. Select the Walking icon.
5. Tap the blue Live View button (it’s right next to the Start button). Now when you start walking toward your destination, large arrows and the street name will appear on your screen to guide you.
I had a chance to check out one of the latest incredibly cheap printers to be circulating out there. This is the Sparkmaker Original, an SLA printer that retails for $250! Having come from years of 3d printer prices dropping consistently, we shouldn’t be too surprised at this, but even within the world of 3D printing, SLA printers have been typically more expensive than their filament based counterparts. Masked SLA, the ones that use an LCD screen to block UV light, are incredibly cheap to produce though, so it makes sense that they would end up cheaper than a normal cartesian printer.
With this recent glut of cheap resin printers, people do need to keep in mind all the additional things that come with resin. You have this toxic material that gets everywhere, your parts need to be cleaned thoroughly and cured before handling, you have to dispose of your waste properly, and you need to seek out the right resin for the job (does it need to be tough? heat resistant? etc, there’s a resin for that).
This isn’t a full review of this printer. When it comes to something like this, that cuts so many corners in the interest of keeping costs down, the real judge of quality will end up being how long it lasts. Yes, it prints right now, and the few tests I did printed just fine with good results. Will the parts last over time? When I have issues how will the support be? Only time will tell on those fronts.
It really is hard to deny, however, that $250 is an incredibly cheap price to pay to get parts that look this great.